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TIME: Almanac 1995
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TIME Almanac 1995.iso
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<text id=93TT2189>
<title>
Sep. 06, 1993: The Last Safe Place
</title>
<history>
TIME--The Weekly Newsmagazine--1993
Sep. 06, 1993 Boom Time In The Rockies
</history>
<article>
<source>Time Magazine</source>
<hdr>
COVER STORY, Page 27
The Last Safe Place
</hdr>
<body>
<p>A longtime resident of Montana ponders the invasion of the Rockies,
what it means for his state and what it says about America
</p>
<p>By WILLIAM KITTREDGE
</p>
<p> William Kittredge, a short-story writer, lives in Missoula,
Montana. His latest book is Hole in the Sky, published by Knopf
in 1992.
</p>
<p> Here in the Montana Rockies lately we've all got celebrity stories.
Say you're sitting in a restaurant in Bozeman. A guy at the
next table is going on about Bob said this, and Bob did that.
You can legitimately wonder if he's talking about Redford.
</p>
<p> If he's talking about Ted and Jane, you don't have to wonder.
And it's not just the well-to-do. Seems like everybody is coming.
We had our hundred years of solitude, and now the West is turning
itself into a make-believe place where celebrities and tourists
and retirees can roam and find homes. Beverly Hills in the highlands.
</p>
<p> Look down the two-lane highway, past the beauties of the Sawtooth
Mountains and the swales along the Salmon River, over Lost Trail
Pass into the Bitterroot Valley, across the Clark Fork of the
Columbia and past the Mission Mountains and Flathead Lake and
Glacier Park to the blue Canadian Rockies. It's all sort of
glorious. And it's a bumper-to-bumper raceway--Jeeps and Winnebagos
and Harleys, Californians and Canadians, illicit drug vendors
on holiday, fly-fishing nuts who saw A River Runs Through It.
Who knows? Some of them are tourists, but many are coming to
stay. They've sold a house in some suburb; they're bringing
what money they've got; and they're intent on buying in, souls
on the run.
</p>
<p> Outside Sun Valley I saw a vast house being built to enclose
an old weathered barn. I mean, the whole barn was going to end
up inside the living room. You could think of it as decor, a
way of incorporating actuality into the dream.
</p>
<p> In July, on a flight out of Kalispell, I sat beside a big man
in his 50s, a native with a bad limp earned playing football
for the Montana State Bobcats and riding in rodeos. He was moving
to deepest Wyoming. "There's nobody around here anymore but
a bunch of golf-course Canadians," he said.
</p>
<p> Many locals, the ones not selling real estate, are equally unhappy.
Most of them like the money siphoning into the local economy
but feel they're being invaded.
</p>
<p> Imagine it. You've spent your life in a town by the river where
the cottonwood leaves flash in the evening breeze. You can do
a little fly-fishing at night after work or go for a run on
a trail in the wilderness. You hate seeing your paradise overrun
by latecomers from some seaport. "I guess it's a trade," one
fellow told me. "We want the money, we got to put up with the
ninnies."
</p>
<p> We can't afford to live here anymore, people say, not with the
taxes. There are plenty of horror stories. Farmers near Kalispell
can't afford to go on farming, and just 20 miles down the road
at Eagle Bend, outlanders are paying several hundred thousand
for a condo on the golf course.
</p>
<p> Many old-time Montana people feel they are fighting for their
lives. They've generated a taxpayers' revolt.
</p>
<p> A lot of newcomers are eager to join. Many are coming to the
Rockies to retire. Their children are long out of school. They're
on fixed incomes and resist supporting education. But these
good folks don't seem to give a damn about the welfare of our
next generation. They want to buy into our functioning culture
on the cheap.
</p>
<p> And they are. The Rockies have always been a resource colony.
And now our traditional economy, based on logging, mining and
agriculture, is troubled. Environmentalists are battling to
save our forests and toughen up our mining laws. The Federal
Government has more than doubled grazing fees for ranchers.
All of which, if you value the integrity of the natural world,
is a good thing.
</p>
<p> But a lot of locals, former loggers and miners and such, are
likely to end up in the servant business, employed as motel
clerks and hunting guides, and they know it. It's not hard to
figure why many people in the Rockies hate this wave of outlanders
with such passion.
</p>
<p> What's drawing these crowds? It's not so much, I think, the
beauties of nature, or cheap land, as it is safety. Sanctuary.
</p>
<p> As we know, our old America fantasy--a New World and social
justice all around--has gone seriously defunct. Millions of
citizens in our cities quite justifiably count themselves disfranchised.
Some are angry, armed and dangerous.
</p>
<p> So much fear is shredding the web of affection and responsibility
that is at the heart of any good society. Many people are dropping
everything, leaving the cities, running.
</p>
<p> Is this the old dream--America the beautiful, and I want my
share? Yeah, except it may be more accurate to say that this
is all that's left of the dream--a hideout in the Rockies,
the last safe place. And afterward, in a couple more generations,
where will we go then?
</p>
</body>
</article>
</text>